Babies are seriously the cutest. And what could be cuter than a baby wearing something handmade? Not much can top that. I wanted to make something for my little one to keep her cozy this winter. As new parents, we quickly realized how useful it was to put her in a sleep gown overnight. It made sleepy diaper changes so much easier! I determined to make her a crochet sleep gown, but there really weren’t a variety of patterns from which to choose. Since I didn’t find much inspiration on Pinterest, I designed my own sleep gown.
This pattern calls for worsted weight yarn and makes a great stash buster since you can make it in as few or many colors as you want. And no matter what, your baby will still look super cute! I plan to make a lightweight version of this sleep gown in the spring with maybe sport weight yarn, but a worsted weight sleep gown is perfect for cold winter nights.
This pattern will have size 0-3 months listed here. If you want directions to make a larger size (3-6, 6-9, or 9-12 months) or to have a printer-friendly format, you can purchase the inexpensive PDF download on my Etsy, Ravelry, or website stores.
Materials
- Approximately 550 (600, 700, 750) yards of worsted weight yarn
- I/5.5 mm hook
- Stitch markers, four
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Button, size 1.5 cm
- Optional: elastic headband (the headband I got was only slightly thicker than a regular hairtie); may alternatively use white braided elastic
Gauge
With a foundation ch of 17 (sk first ch as it is the turning ch) *[SC, HDC, DC] in same st, sk 2 sts* repeat * to * 5 times, 1 SC in last st, turn Ch 1 x 12 rows = 4” x 4”
Notes
- The yoke is started in rows and then transitions to being joined in the round. The sleeves are then made by attaching yarn at the armholes and worked by joining in the round.
- Instructions are included for using an elastic at the bottom of the gown to cinch it in, though you can also choose to leave the end open.
- Spike st- SC in the st below the row you are working on (essentially you are working around the entire row), see photo below that shows a single spike st in the middle of a row of SC
Abbreviations
- Ch- chain stitch
- St(s)- stitch(es)
- FHDC- foundation half double crochet
○ This stitch essentially means you are crocheting the foundation chain and the first row of HDC at the same time. It creates a stretchier foundation chain as you work into the underside of the foundation chain. I have included written directions below under SPECIAL STITCHES but you can find video tutorials online as well. Alternative directions are given in the pattern if you are unfamiliar with FHDC.
- SC- single crochet
- SC2Tog- single crochet 2 st together
- HDC- half double crochet
- DC- double crochet
- Inc- increase (HDC 2 in same st)
- Slst- slip stitch
- Sk- skip
- Ch sp(s)- chain space(s)
- YO- yarn over
- SM- stitch marker
- FO- fasten off
Yoke
FHDC 30, Ch 5, turn, sl st to first FHDC st, Ch 1 (this creates the buttonhole)
Alternatively, you can ch 31 HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in each ch to the end, Ch 5, turn, sl st to first HDC st, Ch 1
Row 1: HDC in same st as sl st, HDC 4, (HDC, Ch 2, HDC) in next st and place SM in Ch sp, HDC 3, (HDC, Ch 2, HDC) in next st and place SM in Ch sp, HDC 10, (HDC, Ch 2, HDC) in next st and place SM in Ch sp, HDC 3, (HDC, Ch 2, HDC) in next st and place SM in Ch sp, HDC 5, Ch 1, turn (34 HDC, 4 Ch sps)
Row 2: HDC in ea. st until SM, *(HDC, Ch 2, HDC) in ch sp and move SM up a row, HDC in ea. st* repeat from * to * until end of row, Ch 1, turn (42, HDC, 4 Ch sps)
It can sometimes be difficult to tell where the stitches are surrounding the Ch 2 space. If you flip over your work you can more easily see which stitches are Chs and which are HDC. In the picture to the left, you will work the next st (even though it may not look like a st from the side you are working), sk 2 Ch (make sure you are not working into one of the Chs, the last one may look like a st from the side you are working), and then work the next st. Both stitches to be worked are indicated by red arrows.
Rows 3-4: Repeat Row 2 (58 HDC, 4 Ch sps)
You will now be splitting the yoke.
Row 5: HDC in ea. st until first SM, HDC in ch sp, Ch 12, sk sts until second SM, HDC in ch sp, HDC in ea. st until third SM, HDC in ch sp, Ch 12, sk sts until fourth SM, HDC in ch sp, HDC in ea. st to end of row, sl st to first st of row, Ch 1, turn (40 HDC, 24 Ch)
You will now be working in the round, joining with a slst and turning at the end of each round.
Body
Round 6: Working in every HDC and Ch, *HDC, Inc, HDC 2, Inc* repeat from * to * around until last 4 sts, HDC in last 4 sts, sl st to first st of round, Ch 1, turn (88 HDC)
Round 7: Cluster in first st, sk 2 sts, *cluster in next st, sk 2 sts* repeat from * to * until last st, SC in last st, Slst to first st of round, Ch 1, turn (29 clusters)
Rounds 8-61 (54 rounds): Repeat Round 7 (29 clusters)
Your gown will be approximately 22 inches long. You can always stop on whatever round you want to get the desired length. After you have your desired length, go on to the last round.
Round 62: Working around the headband elastic, SC in ea. st around, sl st to first st, FO (88 SC)
The elastic cinches in the bottom, but you can also just leave the bottom completely open. I would avoid using a drawstring to close the bottom due to the potential strangulation hazard.
Sleeves
Attach yarn to the center of the armpit with the right side of the garment facing you.
Round 1: Ch 1, SC in same stitch and ea. st until the corner where the body meets the raglan, SC2Tog at corner, SC in ea. st along raglan until the corner where the body meets the raglan, SC2Tog at corner, SC in ea. st until last st, sl st to first st of round, Ch 1, turn (26 SC)
Rounds 2-6 (5 rounds): SC in ea. st around, sl st to first st of round, Ch 1, turn (26 SC)
Round 7: SC2Tog in first 2 st, SC in ea. st around, sl st to first st of round, Ch 1, turn (25 SC)
Rounds 8-31 (24 rounds): Repeat Rounds 2-7, ending with (21 SC)
You can always stop on whatever round you want to get the desired length. My baby has long arms and I prefer to cover her cold little hands at night, which is why I wrote the sleeves to this length. After you have your desired length, go on to the last round.
Rounds 32-33: SC in ea. st around, sl st to first st of round, Ch 1, turn (21 SC)
Round 34: Spike st around, sl st to first st of round, FO (21 SC)
Yay! You finished! I hope the little one you are making this for stays nice and cozy. Just a reminder, you can find additional sizes for this pattern in an inexpensive PDF download on my Etsy, Ravelry, or website stores. As always, I really appreciate any support you give me for my little business.
Please share your Sweet Pea Infant Sleep Gowns with me on Instagram @crowchetcreations or through the hashtags #crowchetcreations and #sweetpeainfantsleepgown. I would love to see what you make!
XO, Emily
